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[tbgoose]

Hi all

I am trying to incorporate a 2532 PID into my 6 rack OBS. There are posts about this, including one that links to the Bradley forums but it is out of date and none of the pictures are uploaded anymore.

I do not have an electrical background and would like a little guidance RE what goes where... As the device is 240V AC I am not keen to mess around too much without some sort of guide to work from.

PID

There are 6 connections to the PID that I need to use https://i.imgur.com/LV6iVAS.jpg  https://i.imgur.com/vpaHuYu.jpg

3/4 = K type thermocouple (straight forward)   https://i.imgur.com/S4gdtWB.jpg

7/8 = SSR  https://i.imgur.com/2syG9V9.jpg

9/10 = Live AC  https://i.imgur.com/lnGgSpf.jpg

I gather that the live AC is actually the AC out from the Bradley (presume this is the heating element control), not the AC in as this goes to the puck thingy and all the other electrics. I don't think the PID wants to get involved with that stuff. I don't plan to have the PID switched at all. It will be fully implemented and run whenever I use the smoker.


SSR

• Blue wire goes to 7 on PID, brown wire goes to 8 on PID. https://i.imgur.com/sFNcpKZ.jpg
• Output 1 goes to existing white cable that used to go into N on the AC out plug. Output 2 goes to the existing red cable that used to go to into L on the AC out plug. https://i.imgur.com/mI0AFJX.jpg

It's hard to describe this stuff, but if you have the smoker and have done this mod you'll know what I mean.

[Kkane]

Unfortunately, I don't have the inside wiring for your smoker at this moment. I can give you some basic ideas for this project.

Some comments:

1. It looks like you are using standard copper wires to connect the thermocouple to the controller (your color code doesn't match thermocouple). You should use thermcouple extension wire to connect the thermocouple to the controller. It will introduce some reading error if you use standard copper wire.

2. I'm still not clear about your power wiring (to the PID and to the SSR). Generally speaking, you should power up the PID all the time, and you can jump a wire from the power-in socket on the smoke tower to PID's power input, before the dial control (if possible). If you jump the power wire from the heating element to the PID, when heating element is powered off, your PID is powered off.

3. For the power output of SSR, you can wire it in serial to the heating element. Your heating element is connected to hot and neutral (through dial control). Neutral is always connected to the heating element, and you can wire the output of SSR in serial to the hot wire of the heating element. So the output of SSR will work as a power switch.

BTW, for the expired link, you can use the web archive tool to get the previous cached page: https://web.archive.org   

Here is an example: https://web.archive.org/web/20070529205951/http://www.susanminor.org/forums/showthread.php?t=315