Auber Forum

I have a 1948 Frigidaire converted to a smoker. I'm using a single 1500w element and a WS-1211H controller. I'm using a 6" iron skillet, directly over but not touching the element, for my chip tray. Typically running it at 225-275 depending on the meat. My chips get black but don't burn and make much of smoke. Before I bought the controller I ran a second hot plate for smoke and the 1500w element for temp it was a PITA but it worked.
If I ran in "heat" mode and increase the deadband say 5*-7* would that get my chips burning better.

To restart the program, press and hold the down arrow key for 2s. See the link below for details.

https://www.auberins.com/images/Manual/Quick_list_23x2.pdf

Yes, SYL-2352P can be used in New Zealand. You can hook up your 220V hot and neutral to this controller and it will be powered.

Most likely no. The SSR output is rated as 12V/30mA. It is good enough to drive SSR(s) but it may not be enough to drive your DC fan. You can consider using a 220V AC fan with its alarm output instead.

Hi guys.
I've wired my PID up to run & test some functions & set up a ramp, soak situation which worked perfectly. At the end of the set programme, my controller now says stop on the bottom display but how do I get it back to normal temp reading mode? I want the PV to show current temp but the bottom says stop.
Cheers

Hi, I bought a SYL-2352P for a heat treatment oven. I saw it was rated to 240v and thought it should be fine, however looking at the wiring it shows as 110v + neutral or 2x 110v inputs i.e. two hot legs. I am in New Zealand and have 240v and neutral supply instead of two 110v supplies. Can anyone tell me if I can still use this controller and if not which one I need. Also as a side note would it be possible to run a 12v fan off the SSR output to cool enclosure while element is switched on. Thanks

You may need to figure out your reading issue at first. The control system will not work if the reading is incorrect.

You may need to trace from the sensor tip to the back of the controller module. If the sensor is directly hooked up to the controller with one cable, yes, you can just reverse both wires to the back of the controller. Then check if your reading looks better.

If there is one extension wire connecting your thermocouple wire to the controller, please check and see if that extension wire is copper wire or not. Thermocouple wire is made by two different metals and you have to use the same type thermocouple wire for the extension. You cannot use copper wire for the extension, otherwise it will introduce some reading error.

The following article will give you some ideas:

https://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=page&id=11

appreciate the response!!
1- thank you for clarification on my programs, I will update
2- yes, when the real temp increases, the PV decreases. I bought this used, so assuming they installed incorrectly?
4- updated to default

THANK YOU!

1. Here are some mistakes for your timers in your program #1

Your step 2 timer T02 is 300, so it will hold at 200 degree for 5 hrs (300 mins).

Similarly, your step 3 timer T03 is 1600, so it will ramp up from 200 to 1828 in 1600 mins or 26.7 hrs.

2. Negative PV is abnormal. When the real temp increases, will the PV increase or decrease? If decrease, your thermocouple polarifty is reversed.

3. Your program #2 has the same timer mistakes.

-CO1 = 200 / T01 = 120 //If you set start temp 01 as 200F, that also works. So it will not control the initial heat up rate.
-C02 = 200 / T02 = 300 // 300 mins, not 3 hrs.
-C03 = 200 / T03 = 1600  // 1600 mins, not 16 hrs.
-C04 = 1828 / T04 = -121

4. A-M parameter. Default is 2. For its definition, see section 5.3.15 on page 6 of its manual.

BAUD parameter is not used in this controller.

Check COOL. Default, it is set to 10 for Fahrenheit.

https://www.auberins.com/images/Manual/SYL-2352P%20Manual.pdf

You may need to verify if the PV reading on the controller is correct or not.

hello I recently purchased a kiln with an SYL-2352P controller.

I have the program as follows:
-CO1 = 90 / T01 = 120 (ramp from ambient to 200 degrees in 2 hrs)
-C02 = 200 / T02 = 300 (hold at 200 degrees for 3 hrs)
-C03 = 200 / T03 = 1600 (ramp from 200 to 1828 degrees in 16 hrs)
-C04 = 1828 / T04 = -121 (once reaching 1828, stop program)

The kiln seems to not be reaching my set value temperatures, and there is a discrepancy in the read out. (I know the kiln can get above 200 degrees because the first time I loaded it incorrectly too close to the thermocouple, it was extremely hot, and the alarm went off. But the PV read -258...)

Yesterday the SV was set to 90, and instead of staying at 90 I watched it climb to 147 after 2 hours. The PV stayed pretty steady around 70 for the two hours.

I ran a different program today:

-CO1 = 200 / T01 = 120 (I thought maybe I needed to change C01 to ramp from ambient to 200 degrees in 2 hrs)
-C02 = 200 / T02 = 300 (hold at 200 degrees for 3 hrs)
-C03 = 200 / T03 = 1600 (ramp from 200 to 1828 degrees in 16 hrs)
-C04 = 1828 / T04 = -121 (once reaching 1828, stop program)

After 4 hours, the PV was 125, and SV 200. After 6 hours, the PV was 75 and the SV was 200.

All of my settings were default, except:
-A-M was set to 4, I updated it to 2
-bAud I cannot change from 4800
-I hope I am working in Fahrenheit degrees, not Celsius? Unsure how to check this

Any help is appreciated, thank you!
Not quite sure what is going on, any help would be appreciated!!

thanks for the advice, I will give auto tune a whirl and see what happens. I got a little time this weekend to watch and play with it. It seems pretty consistent that it will cycle pretty quickly for the first 4 minutes, then it goes solid ON. I noticed if I kill the master switch and the power, it cycles again for 3-4 minutes then solid again. UNitl it gets to about 390, then it cycles again.

I will try auto and report back, thanks
Don